For a year or so, many decades in the past, I was lucky enough to have lived by the ocean. I knew by heart the primal perfume of the salt water and was lulled to sleep by the sound of the pounding surf. Only those of have rested and resided near the shore understand. For this reason, and because this holiday allowed us to be much freer with our time, December was full of coastal weekends and renewal. Yes, I cooked on Christmas Eve, and filled our New Years table with a brunch fit for a king, but all along the way I had a little sand in my toes to accompany the tinsel on my tree.

This is just as much a travel log as a food journey, but really. Can anything happen without good food along the way? And so one supports the other, and we all sit at the same table of memory and wishes.

Below is the main course for Christmas Eve. A sweet and elegant Kumquat Chutney tops Shaved Honey Ham, Pureed Ginger Yams, and Mushroom Parmesan Risotto.

Bites of love include Jubilee Jumbles cookies, a family recipe that comes to life each Christmas. Individual Omelets filled with your choice of ingredients. Pears ready to poach in Port Wine with a dot of butter.